Federal Wine & Spirits

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This Week's Tasting

Winter Reds Hard + Soft
January 10, 2018

Strong weather calls for strong wines. Bold, to cut the weight of winter stews, is more important than heavy.


flowers in snow


    Any true New Englander knows deep in his/her thoroughly chilled bones that the current spring-like thaw is a cruel tease; that tomorrow, next week, even unto April 1 we will be subjected to weather much more like last week’s deep freeze.
Strong weather calls for strong wines. Bold, to cut the weight of winter stews, is more important than heavy. This week’s tasting:

Mee Godard is a young woman who is been making wines in Morgon for only three years. In that time she has achieved extraordinary success for the precision, definition, and drive of her wines. Her 2014 Morgon Les Cras comes from the old vines in a particularly favored site. We found it outstanding for its power and precision.
Piedmont has certainly become a hot spot for consumers looking for great Nebbiolo. One of the other red grapes of Piedmont is Dolcetto and that is much less well understood here. However in the area of Dogliani these wines are considered very fine and have their own DOCG. The 2015 Eraldo Revelli Dogliani Otto Filari is a substantial wine with that characteristic fine cut of acidity that makes it so good with elaborated meat dishes.
           2015 is a wonder year for red Bordeaux. Château Laussac just outside of St Emilion made an extraordinary merlot-based wine that punches way above its class.
Brunello di Montalcino is one of the most famous red wines in the world. Almost all of the top producers also make a second wine called Rosso di Montalcino, usually from younger vines and made to be ready to drink when young. The 2015 Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino is a beautiful table wine and shows classic aromas and flavors of Sangiovese. Just a t-bone please.
Tasca d’Almerita became the first truly great Sicilian winery of the 20th century. Giuseppe Tasca led the change at the estate from quantity to quality in the 1960s. One of the major grape varieties they championed was Nero d’Avola. The 2014 Tasca d’Almerita Nero d’Avola Lamuri is a rich, refined, and balanced version. This is good with everything from spaghetti and meatballs to roast pork.
           Curt Schalchlin is another passionate young winemaker , working with Rhone grapes in California’s Central Coast. His Mourvedre is an outstanding success. It coming from a single well chosen Sta. Barbara vineyard whose 3200 foot altitude makes for warm days for ripeness and cool nights for vivacious acidity.



2014 Domaine Mee Godard Morgon Grand Cras; Color: Md light; Aroma: Poised heady rather sweet ripe fruit clean; Mouth: Poised and pure clean very fine and poised, very nice cut, elegant ; Very Good - Excellent 32; Mixed Case, 28.8; Case, 27.2

2015 Eraldo Revelli Dogliani Otto Filari: Ruby red with violet rim. Vivid dark fruit with harmonious aromas and flavors. Very Good Plus 21/bottle 18.90/mixed case 17.85/case

2015 Ch Laussac (Castillon) “a detailed, quite complex bouquet with lifted blackberry and cedar aromas, very expressive and welcoming. The palate is clean and fresh, very well balanced with grainy tannin, pure black and red fruit, and is beautifully poised with an elegant finish that is an absolute delight.” Neal Martin, Wine Advocate 29.99; Mixed Case, 26.99; Case, 25.49

2015 Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino: Elements of red berry underbrush and clove with velvety tannins. Well structured with a long finish. Very Good to Excellent 24.99/bottle 22.50/mixed case 21.25/case

2014 Groundwork Mourvedre; Color: very dark tint, medium dense, semi-opaque; Aroma: lightly spicy, clean, racy and tight , very firm, lifted acidity, a subtle nutty accent, intriguing; Mouth: sweet fruit very full, dense rich, smooth; Very Good Plus 23.99; Mixed Case, 21.59; Case, 20.39

2014 Tasca d’Almerita Nero d’Avola Lamuri: Intense ruby red. Black cherry, dark fruit with notes of tobacco, vanilla and wild herb. Smooth spicy tannins and a long finish. Very Good to Excellent 21/bottle 18.90/mixed case 17.85/case

1-10 Winter Red Case: Special, two each of the above wines - $261
Instore only 1-10 Winter Red Pack: Special, one each of the above wines - $138


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Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!


           - Len Rothenberg


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