Clos du Mont Olivet, Tradition and Freshness
2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition + 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Papet
March 15, 2024
Although they are described as traditional, the Sabon family makes Rhone wines in an almost Burgundian style that values freshness and elegance over flash. Founded in the mid-16th century, the estate today is run by the dynamic and talented Thierry Sabon. It encompasses parcels of mainly 60+ year old vines throughout Chateauneuf.
The wines are classical in style, with heady, complex aromatics, and ripe, exuberant, garrigue-laden fruit that tastes of the stones that comprise the fascinating soils of the area. The quality of Clos du Mont-Olivet has never been higher, and the value represented by their extraordinary lineup stands as a bastion of historic Chateauneuf.
The Revue du Vin De France ranks their Chateauneuf along with Rayas and Vieux Donjon at the top of the Chateauneuf pantheon, particularly praising the reserve Cuvee Papet for its finesse precision and potential for long aging.
Some other growers’ affinity for oak and rising temperatures have made high alcohol, over-ripening, and disjointedness frequent issues in recent vintages, but Clos du Mont-Olivet’s wines remain poised, elegant, and chiseled.
Thierry and his siblings, Celine, and David, execute viticulture sustainably and practice organics where possible. Their vineyards are ploughed even when it is difficult to do so on their clay, gravel, and quartz soils. Pheromone traps instead of insecticides. In the winery, Thierry uses only indigenous yeasts. Wood flavoring barriques are used sparingly if at all. Fermentation takes place in concrete, ageing mainly in cement, large old barrels, or stainless Thierry’s wines sing of fruit and terroir far more than wood and heat.
2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition
“Matured for 20 months in a combination of foudre, concrete and steel tanks. …offers up lively aromas of ripe red and black fruits, tomato leaf, cloves and dried herbs. It is a polished and layered full-bodied red with ripe tannins and bright acidity, capturing the freshness really well. Drinking Window - 2024 – 2036” Nicolas Greinacher , Vinous
“This medium-weight red offers notes of red currant and snappy cherry, backed by singed cedar and smoked black tea flavors, with iron bolts grounding fruit and perfume notes. Starts off very smooth, with straight tannins that make for a firmly structured finish. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink now through 2033. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported. Drinking Window - 2024 – 2036” Kristen Bieler, Wine Spectator
;Aroma: light reserved, reserved, but heady and full, wants some airing; Mouth: full fat somewhat lean ion entry good length, very pure and elegant; Very Good - Excellent
2020 Clos du Mont Olivet Chateauneuf du Pape 'Cuvee Papet
Mont Olivet makes Cuvee Papet only in very good years. It is their reserve wine drawn from the best barrels of the domain. Nearly all Grenache , it comes from vines that are more than a century old.
The Revue du Vin de France loved the 2020, reviewing it as a coup de coeur
“A lovely expression of Granche with complete maturity, it is all about spices and black fruit, a whole it is iprofound. The mouth has more purity than the domaine cuvée. There is as much power, but it is relieved and made fresh by a tannic structure."
“Seductive in nature, the wine offers its ripe center of black raspberries and kirsch with little effort. Medium-bodied, with purity and finesse to spare, you can enjoy this in its youth, or age it for over a decade. Either way, this is quite a success for the vintage. Drink from 2023-2035.” Jeff Leve Wine Cellar Insider Excellent
2021 Clos du Mont Olivet Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition
$53 $49; Case, $41.99
2020 Clos du Mont Olivet Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Pape
$98 $85; Case, $71.99
Assort any 12 bottles of the Tradition and the Papet at their discount bottle price
- Len Rothenberg
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