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Graceful? |
People evidently like animals, for we had quite a good crowd for last week's excursion to the wine label zoo. The animals on show did not always behave in the manner expected. Some of the attendees did not behave at all, which is not unexpected.
The race for the favorite was less to the swift than the lush and the unctuous. The Rhinoceros, the 2005 La Spinetta Barbera Ca di Pian won by a nose, a tusk, or a horn, whichever you prefer. It fairly swooshed over the palate, not lumbering or leathery, but wearing its rich bulk with all the grace that owner Giorgio Rivetti finds in the Durer etching that adorns the label.
Close behind in tasters' estimation came the Dog, the 2004 Mulderbosch Faithful Hound. Not at all the spotted hound on the label, it was a large friendly St. Bernard that romped across the line warm and fluffy with soft flesh highlighted with sweet Cabernet Franc and Merlot spice notes.
The other two reds lagged behind through no fault of their own . The Horse, the Cru Beaujolais 2006 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette was a lean and graceful thoroughbred, not a work horse that could compare in bulk with the rhino and the dog. Nice enough, but forgotten after the rich wines that followed. It will reach its full-stride in warmer weather that asks for sleeker wines.
The Bird, the 2004 Castellare Chianti Classico was also lighter and even racier than the horse. Its good acid backbone was too strong for some earlier tasters, but it softened with time open and really needed a plate with some lamb or cow to complement its finesse and power.
The two whites did not act at all like their animals on the label. People really liked the Wolf, the 2006 Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie which came across not wolfish at all, but crisply acid and slightly nutty. It wanted such unwolf-like fare as shellfish or trout. They would like it very much at its under $12 price.
The 2006 Clos La Chance Unoaked Chardonnay was much weightier than the Hummingbird on its label, but had a drier version of the nectar that hummingbirds drink. Clean, with ripe papaya, it was more understated, but as satisfying as the wolf.
Everyone seemed to have a good time especially as they cozied up to the animals on the label, asking for the wines by species or nickname. Fred K went over the line, though when he requested a taste of Mr. Ed. I knew that horse from the dawn of color TV. Wise and witty Mr. Ed was, he was no horse on the label of the Coudert Fleurie.
That horse, La Roilette, was a mare.
The Federal Bestiary
Wolf: The Loire
| 2006 Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie :
Aroma: light spicy lean; Mouth: crisp lemony light fine acid, delicate mineral, a touch of fizz, clean racy, good cut;
Very Good |
$11.95 |
$10.76 |
$10.16 |
Hummingbird: California
| 2006 Clos La Chance Unoaked Chardonnay;
Aroma: oak, good intensity, some zing, apple -citrus; Mouth: fine edge, relatively lean racy fruit over aa fine acid core, good length;
Very Good |
$12.95 |
$11.66 |
$11.01 |
Red
Horse: Beaujolais
2006 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette
Its color is crimson, Its aroma is bold;
with granite and nutmeg and black fruits untold.
Now over the palate, grace not to forget
Came a dancin’ and a prancin’ our noble Roilette.
It started with finesse, so tasty to us,
and finished in round fruit, to be Very Good Plus
$21; Mixed Case, 18.90; Case, 17.85
Rose Finch: Tuscany
| 2004 Castellare Chianti Classico ;
Bright ruby red. Smokey cherry, iris, toasty oak. Layered fruit flavors, nutty,cedar. Velvet finish
Very Good Plus |
$21.95 |
$19.75 |
$18.65 |
Rhinoceros: Piedmont
| 2005 La Spinetta Barbera Ca di Pian :
Ruby red/purple rim. Aromas of black cherry, violet and plum. Textured fruit flavors, spicy oak and mild tannin. Complex finish.
Very Good Plus |
$24.95 |
$22.45 |
$21.20 |
Dog: Stellenbosch, South Africa
| 2004 Mulderbosch Faithful Hound :
Aroma: rather closed a bit crisp, clean fresh; Mouth: sweet firm, rounded fleshy, sweet soft textured;
Very Good Plus |
$23.95 |
$21.56 |
$20.36 |
The 3/26 Federal Home Zoo: Two of each of the above wines at a special price of $199
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