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Torbreck Vindyards |
Given the recent weather you might well think that some groundhog snuck into last week’s tasting, found his shadow in our cellar, and put us in for another dose of winter.
The wines in the glasses though were illuminating. The 2006 Domaine Duerre white Cotes du Rhone, started off bright and sassy with a crisp herbal acidity, nicely balanced by a broad herb-accented fruit. it was eclipsed, however, by the wi ne that followed, the 2006 Borgo di Colloredo Falanghina, a southern Italian white that comes from Molise, on the calf of the Italian boot. That showed rich and complete, with a nice acid backbone and an evocative spice. The Toasted Head Grand Reserve Chardonnay that followed was correct and precise, drier than the winery’s more well known regular bottling, but tasted less imposing in the shadow of its more opulent predecessor.
The 2006 La Posta Malbec Pizzella Vineyard was as racy as my notes below indicated but richer and fatter in fruit, very nicely balanced. It was as popular among last week’s tasters as it has become in the store. The 2006 Erbaluna Dolcetto d’Alba Ghiaie was dense and powerful and packed much more flavor intensity than its price would indicate. Some tasters found it a bit hard and short, though. I think that some breathing would be advised and that this is a wine that will age very well.
The red favorite was the 2006 Torbreck Juveniles, an Australian Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre blend. It showed rich and flowing, with generous fruit, lightly accented with black pepper from the Mourvedre. Most people loved it, a few acetics found it too fruity for their palates.
The Whites
You may remember Domaine Duerre as the source for a very good 2001 Cotes du Rhone made from Syrah and a Vinsobres Cotes du Rhone Villages in Syrah and Grenache. Their white Cotes du Rhone is equally good. It is made from the richer- styled Rhone gapes, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier, given attitude and edge by more traditional Clairette and Ugni Blanc. The result is racy and refreshing and full of herbal floral flavor.
In the little known, but ancient, wine growing region of Molise the brothers Enrico and Pasquale di Giulio produce wines of amazing value. For white, the first in their line is the 2006 Borgo di Colloredo Falanghina. Falanghina is a grape, believed to be of Greek origin, that was planted widely in the ancient Greek colonies in southern Italy well before the founding of Rome 2700 years ago. Many producers, mostly in Campania, have rediscovered the ancient pedigree of this grape variety. In any case, Falanghina produces a wonderful, versatile wine that is particularly suitable with seafood.
Did you ever think you would see Toasted Head in one of our tastings. You will, but not the Toasted Head Chardonnay that rests its woody fruity bottom on the shelf of your local supermarket. We just tasted their new estate grown Grand Reserve Chardonnay. Forget the fancy moniker, the crucial thing is that it hails from the cooler clime of Russian River, and has a crisp, mineral accented, vivacity absent from its Dunnegan Hills country cousin. The price isn't fancy, and the brand name might be a misnomer; there isn't so much wood either. Good wine.
The Reds
We loved La Posta Malbec when it first appeared in the market five years ago. It had a nice run , then vanished. We wre happy to see it back, with an excellent single vineyard from the Pizzella vineyard. Racy and clean, it is Malbec with a lot of breed and focus.
Like many of the fine properties in Piemonte, Erbaluna offers a deft combination of tradition and technology. The big change came back in 1985 when the brothers Andrea and Severino Oberto completed the conversion to 100% organic farming. The new name "Erbaluna" (herbs of the moon) soon followed. Like many producers of Barolo, Erbaluna also makes Barbera and Dolcetto. As a grape, Dolcetto has long been known as the everyday wine of Piemonte. Dolcetto wine ("little sweet one") has beautiful fruit but is not at all sweet. It is dry, even with a slightly bitter almond quality, usually meant to be drunk young and extremely versatile with food. When well made, as with the 2006 Erbaluna Dolcetto d'Alba Ghiaie, the wine is a pure delight.
The 2006 Torbreck Juveniles is a Grenache Syrah, Mourvedre blend that was developed for Willie's Wine Bar in Paris. It shows a purity of fruit and elegance that would make it an good choice against many of that that restaurant's excellent French offerings. It is was a 'Rhone' as pure and sweet as Pinot Noir, but Pinot with just a touch of smoke.
We took it to our local Thai place. My wife loved it, and after we gave gave the rest of the bottle to the staff, both waitress and owner came out to find out what the wine was. If it had gotten to the kitchen staff, no one else might have been served that night.
| 2006 Domaine Duerre Cotes du Rhone Blanc:
Aroma: spicy leanish herbal acid; Mouth: crisp, refreshing herbal notesdruyy and astringemnt , atouch of garigue;
Very Good Plus |
$15.95 |
$14.36 |
$13.56 |
| 2006 Borgo di Colloredo Falanghina:
Pale yellow, green tint. Aromas of green apple and cut flowers. Medium bodied with a fine texture. expansive with air. Crisp finish.
Very Good Plus |
$18.95 |
$17.05 |
$16.10 |
| 2006 Toasted Head Chardonnay Barrel Reserve:
Aroma: spicy, earthy very clean, mineral, clean, light firm; Mouth: very tropial fruit, cean acid citrus, tensile mouthfeel finises with oaky ovewrtone;
Very Good Plus |
$18.95 |
$17.06 |
$16.11 |
Red
| 2006 La Posta Malbec Pizzella family:
Color: very deep dark dense; Aroma: spicy heady full, blackberry, a hint of wood; Mouth: crisp well structured with a fine acid spine, long strong grape finish;
Very Good Plus |
$17.95 |
$16.16 |
$15.26 |
| 2006 Erbaluna Dolcetto d'Alba Ghiaie:
Ruby/violet. Aromas of cherries, flowers and almond nuttiness. Intense, persistent fruit flavors. Dry, tangy finish.
Very Good Plus |
$19.95 |
$17.95 |
$16.95 |
| 2006 Torbreck Juveniles:
Color: red black; Aroma: dark sweet plum with an slight note of smoke and soft black pepper; Mouth: thick sweet fullish, fat, ripe dense sweet plush texture, utterly pure, silky smooth;
Very Good Plus |
$18.95 |
$17.06 |
$16.11 |
4/9 Spring/Sprung Case 2 each of the above wines for a special price of $190
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