Federal Wine & Spirits

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Read about the wines in this tasting

Read our notes

2016 Henri Boillot

The Boillot 2016s we tasted were remarkably consistent through. All had superb definition, appetizing acidities, and rich fruit that belied their ability to age, evidence of masterful and talented winemaking.
February 26, 2018


Henri Boillot  


    Henri Boillot carries himself differently than most other Burgundy winemakers. He is mannered and precise with the easy grace and bemused quizzical half-smile of a Parisian flaneur who has seen the worldThink a thinner Hercule Poirot, but neither prissy nor fussy.

Most of all, he values precision in his wines. You could taste that in those a small group of us had with him yesterday. His 2016's, although quite rich, showed remarkable concision. Frost that year varied the yields greatly, even in contiguous vineyards. This challenged winemakers, as they had to vinify grapes from each vineyard differently to adjust to different combinations of juice concentration and skin thickness

Many wines from the same producer are hit and miss. The Boillot 2016s we tasted were remarkably consistent though. All had superb definition, appetizing acidities, and rich fruit that belied their ability to age, evidence of masterful and talented winemaking.

Boillot compares 2016 to 2010 in style. His wines did show 2010's classic structure, but with richer and more intriguingly delicious fruit.

The Whites showed vivid and vibrant with good acidity's and concentrated fruit. You can drink theBourgogne Blanc now, but I bet it will be better in another year or three. The village Meursault was a fine example of its type, but paled in comparison with the premier cru Charmes. The Charmes has more vibrancy and less fat than most of the vineyard which Boillot attributes to its coming from the upper part of the vineyard and his winemaking which accentuates a wine's liviliness.

           Both his Puligny Montrachet Clos de Mouchere, his monopole in Perrieres, and his Corton Charlemagne were Outstanding, likely even better with longer term aging.

The Reds. We had only five cases of the very complete Bourgogne Rouge. Three have already gone at first taste. Most of the blend is actually from village level wines from lesser appellations like Pernand, Beaune, Marsannay, and Chassagne blended with Bourgogne-level wines from Volnay and Pommard. Likewise the village Volnay includes wine from a premier cru that Boillot judges not quite up to premier cru level. Tasters thought the 2016 Volnay at other growers' premier level. A 2013 has a richness that belies that vintages's lesser reputation.

           The village wines were so concentrated, that the premier crus bettered them in elegance rather than power . The 2016 Fremiet, had the richness of neighboring Pommard, while the 2010 Chevrets near Meursault, was more refined, a purely faceted representative of its vintage, to drink now and over the next few years.

The Bad News There is not much of these wines. Henri is visiting restaurants here and in Connecticut, New York, and New Jersey in the next few days. Much of the wine has already been ordered. The rest is not likely to last long



2016 Bourgogne; Aroma: Fresh clean mineral; Mouth: Clean very pretty fine acidity bracing; Very Good Plus 29 Net

2016 Meursault; Mouth: Clean racy acidity, juicy firm, soft very pretty elegant, delicate & powerful;Very Good - Excellent 61 Net

2016 Meursault Charmes; Aroma: Heady very rich very intense thick; Mouth: Clean firm dense; thick, very rich, sweet tactile bright acid very spicy; Excellent - Outstanding 103 Net

2016 Puligny Montrachet Clos de Mouchere; Aroma: Very rich very fresh very pretty & elegant d, clean rather lifted; Mouth: Clean forward,  sweet rather clean, sweet acid , pretty rather dense, sweet fruit, very long; Outstanding 124 Net

2016 Corton Charlemagne; Aroma: Rich very fresh rather clean firm; Mouth: Clean tight rather open very rich sweet  Firm tannin on the finish young; Outstanding 198 Net

2015 Puligny Montrachet Clos de La Mouchere; Aroma: Fresh clean rather pretty, lighter, light fresh, clean; Mouth: Smooth rather clean soft green apple still rich good vibrancy, firm; Excellent 133 Net

2013 Meursault Charmes; Aroma: Heady rather dense, full, clean deep, fleshy; Mouth: Clean light in the center Fine acidity, a touch vacant, less concentration than 2016Excellent 103 Net

2012 Meursault Poruzots; Color: Darker color; Aroma: Fleshy; Mouth: Soft older rather dense thick, thick; Very Good - Excellent 101 Net



2016 Henri Boillot Bourgogne Rouge; Aroma: Very rich very dense; Mouth: Juicy dark fruit very nice acidity lively very rich heady dense full bodied; Very Good Plus 29 Net

2016 Volnay; Aroma: Dense rather tight clean firm; Mouth: Dense fine tannins, dark black fruit sweet , very full, concentrated compact; Excellent 63 Net

2016 Volnay Fremiets; Aroma: Sweet rather oaky, heady spice forward, rather dense; Mouth: Clean light rather firm, juicy tight tannins, old viney; Excellent - Outstanding 110 Net

2013 Volnay; Color: Medium red black; Aroma: Heady light rather clean, dense; Mouth: Clean rounded fleshy, rather dense fleshy, Fine tannin, black fruit; Excellent 74 Net

2010 Volnay Chevrets; Color: Medium light; Aroma: Fresh rather pretty, very deep, spicy lean; Mouth: Clean rather firm, Rather dark, deep black fruit, very deep. Clean; Excellent - Outstanding 87 Net


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            - Len Rothenberg