Federal Wine & Spirits

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Read about the wines in this tasting

This Week's Tasting

The Inimitable Dave Powell, His Superb Shiraz and Friends
September 13, 2017

The irrepressible Dave Powell made some of the finest Australian reds in his years at Torbreck winery. He left in 2014 to make wines with his son that may even surpass them.

David Powell and Son  

Powell & Son

Last winter we offered some excellent wines from the difficult 2014 vintage. Tonight Dave will present 2015’s that Lisa Perotti-Brown in the Wine Advocate called "spectacular, wines of extraordinary intensity, complexity and balance." and added:
"In case you’re thinking you need another high-octane, Aussie fruit bomb like a hole in the head, think again. These are bright, intense, polished wines crafted with elegance and great poise. The only downside is the small quantities."
           Dave previewed three 2015s for me last winter. I have entered my notes below and certainly agree. Is the Kraehe Shiraz worth the price of a first growth Bordeaux? Yes, emphatically.
           Notes in quotes are from the Wine Advocate.
 
2016 Powell & Son • Marsanne Roussanne "60% Marsanne and 40% Roussanne, ... pretty scents of warm peach, beeswax, honey and allspice with a hint of baking bread. Medium-bodied with plenty of savory and stone fruit flavor layers, it has a satiny texture and great persistence. 160 cases."
 
2016 Powell & Son • Riesling "opens with a lovely lime juice and orange blossoms laced nose, revealing an undercurrent of yuzu, honeysuckle and coriander seeds. Light-bodied, dry and elegantly fruited in the mouth, it provides tons of citrus layers and a lively backbone, finishing with great persistence." $32, mixed case $28.8, Case $27.2
 
2015 Powell & Son • Riverside Grenache Shiraz Mataro; Aroma: heady rather dense very juicy, lifted, heady rather lean, juicy, smoky; Mouth: smooth very rich, very mouth filling anise & leather, rather dense, thick, nicely tensile; Very Good Plus $21; Mixed Case, 18.9; Case, 17.85
                       
"notes of black raspberries, kirsch and mulberries with an earthy undercurrent and a waft of baking spices. The palate is soft, richly fruited and delivers plenty of pure, uncomplicated flavors with great harmony."
 
2015 Powell & Son Barossa Shiraz; Aroma: thick, rather dense heavy, juicy nicely fresh, clean, fullish; Mouth: smooth clean very pretty, heady rather dense, dense deep rather heady; Very Good - Excellent $26.99; Mixed Case, 24.29; Case, 22.94
 
 “ Pronounced blackberry, dark chocolate and black currant notes over hints of black earth, charcoal, licorice and a hint of violets. Profoundly rich and concentrated on the full-bodied palate, it has some delicious savory/olive tapenade notes emerging, supported by firm, ripe tannins and finishing with great length. With 1,500 cases available, snap this beauty up while it lasts!"
 
2015 Powell & Son • Barossa & Eden Valleys Shiraz "Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Barossa & Eden Valleys Shiraz delivers expressive red currant, black cherry and crushed blackberry notes over hints of baking spices, garrigue, black pepper and lavender. Medium to full-bodied and very finely textured with silken, fine-grained tannins and plenty of freshness, it has wonderful length and depth." $62, mixed case $55.8, Case $52.7
 
2015 Powell & Son • Grenache Shiraz Mataro "Blended of 60% Grenache, 20% Shiraz and 20% Mataro, the 2015 Grenache Shiraz Mataro displays a medium garnet-purple color and nose of baked cherries, raspberry preserves and warm plums with a smoky/chargrill undercurrent and savory touch of yeast extract. Full-bodied with concentrated flavors in the mouth, it has a solid backbone of firm, ripe tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and savory." $62, mixed case $55.8, Case $52.70
 
9-13 Powell Case: Special, two each of the above wines - $453
9-13 Powell Special, one each of the above wines - $240

 
Also to be tasted
 
2015 Powell & Son • Brennecker Grenache "from Torbreck’s former Les Amis vineyard (planted in 1901 and dry grown), sports a medium ruby-purple color and exotic spice notes over baked raspberries, cherry cordial and dried herbs with suggestions of anise, roses and tar. Full-bodied, rich and opulent in the mouth, the palate is silken-textured with seductive flavor layers and wonderful poise, finishing long and spicy." $265 Net
 
2015 Powell & Son Shiraz Steinert Vineyard "from a small single vineyard with more than 120-year-old vines in Barossa’s cooler Eden Valley, a deep garnet-purple color and very pretty red currants, black cherries and black raspberries notes, with touches of pepper and spice box plus fleeting wafts of roses. The medium to full-bodied palate is seriously intense, delivering ripe red berry and spice layers with a very long, perfumed finish. 200 cases were made. $545 Net
 
2015 Powell & Son Shiraz Kraehe; Color: very dark opaque, thick; Aroma: lifted very pure rather clean, sweet very pure, lightly herbal, lifted, fruity, lightly limned with oak; Mouth: thick rather dense chocolate coffee, smooth intense viscosity, very, very long, very fine; Outstanding - Superb
 
           "From a tiny, one hectare, 110-year-old vineyard in Barossa ... "a deep garnet-purple color and profoundly scented nose of blackberry and blueberry preserves, dried plums and mulberries with salami and fertile earth undertones, plus hints of marmite toast, asphalt and licorice. The full-bodied palate packs in the flavor layers with the voluptuous fruit superbly framed by firm, rounded tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with epic length. Give this sexy Shiraz another 2-3 years in bottle and drink it over the next 25+ years. 155 cases were made." $545 Net

 

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           - Len Rothenberg

 

(c) Federal Wine and Spirits Inc. 2017