Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

Yet Another White Burgundy Deal

2014 Chanson Vire-Clesse
April 11, 2018


Last week's Lafon St. Veran offer sold out in less than an hour. We found this wine for those who missed out.

Maison Chanson is a venerable burgundy estate and negociant, with origins almost 300 years old. The house was re-vivified at the end of the 90s when it was purchased by the champagne house of Bollinger. They installed one of Burgundy's finest winemakers Jean-Pierre Confuron as the winemaker. He began a more natural, organic agriculture, and used long whole bunch fermentation and lees-aging to give both whites and reds greater body and depth. The reputation of the house has been in the ascendant ever since then.

Confuron's winemaking style is more solid than flashy. His wines are very often reductive when they are first released. They can be harder to be understood and appreciated until they have had a little bottle age.

So it was with the 2014 Vire-Clesse. Only a few more perspicacious people got what the wine was about. Even though it came from the wonderful 2014 white Burgundy vintage and got the two very positive notes below, it languished on the importer's shelf.

Bettane & Desseauve "The house's entry-level white, this one features a surgical precision in its gargantuan representation (1500 hl of production) of Clessé or more simply of Mâconnais. (with the freshness of Clessé, opulence of Viré, correctness of Quintaine) A fresh wine, with the right balance between tonicity and enveloping texture with savory, and appetizing notes of chardonnay; this is the sort of by-the-glass choice that we would like to see more often on bistro wine lists!"

Alan Meadows, Burghound "I would suggest decanting this first. There is impressive richness and volume to the solidly vibrant and delicious flavors that possess reasonably good depth and length. Note that this could easily be enjoyed immediately. 2017 +

We thought it was a very, very good wine now, with a couple of years of upside ahead. It is very full in body, with ripe green apple notes and a touch of sweet pear. We liked it at first taste and also over the next few days.

It was originally priced to sell fair value at $24. We will offer it at $15.99 with a special price by the case of 12.99. At that price we don't expect to have it for very long.


2014 Chanson Vire-ClesseOrganic Aroma: soft apple pear-, deep and reserved; Mouth: very broad with sweet ripeness, green apple with hints of ripe pear, thick to the tongue with good weight, very smooth; Very Good Plus; was $24 now 15.99; Mixed Case, 14.39; Special Case, 12.99           


Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com


Len Rothenberg